‘Life Is Cheap...But Toilet Paper Is Expensive’ (which is unfortunately not on Youtube) is one of those movies you insist friends watch, so convinced you are of its
life changing qualities. After watching they call it off-beat, fucked up and (if I may use the term) plotless. The movie, directed by
Wayne Wong, is a fairly half-baked triad flick take-off, featuring a wealth of odd-ball characters mixed in with a lot of documentary film. Some of the weirdo characters are actors: a former Red Guard, a prostitute, a triad gang boss and a crazy taxi driver, but some are in fact just playing themselves: the seventy year old Chinese Elvis and the first Chinese couple to feature on ‘Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous.’ There is real film of ducks being slaughtered out back of a Chinese restaurant, the live ducks, four of them tied together, hang upside down; as they have their throats cut, they flap madly, propelling themselves in circles – blood spurts on pure white feathers.
It’s an almost perfect array! But if I could I would add in the following:
1. An Indian doctor who injects Filipina maids with penicillin for gonorrhoea, and barks out instructions to his nurses in Cantonese…
2. Africans drinking beer in the seven-eleven around the corner from the world famous Chungking Mansions, ‘what do you need my friend? A girl? A gun? An elephant?' The Chinese girl working behind the counter at that shop is more self-possessed than anybody up in the mainland: she chats amicably away in English with her varied customers.
3. Drunks down at the harbour-side gurgling out the most throat-ripping Cantonese you’ve ever heard
4. A few ex-pats as the Chinese really like them: rich, arrogant and playing tennis – and of course with very plum accents. Although, I think it is a great strength of this film that, despite the fact that the view of Hong Kong is definitely that of an outsider, there are only Asian people acting in it, and that the director is a Hong Konger - this means that this
very sardonic, yet realistic flick can't be labelled racist, imperialistic or whatever...
The main character in the movie is an American of Chinese and Japanese descent; he is a complete fish out of water in the mad world of HK. He has to deliver a suitcase to the triad boss, unfortunately he manages to lose the suitcase and get involved with the boss’s girlfriend. His punishment? Eating a plate of shit. I think the suitcase gets stolen at the beginning of the chase scene, filmed with a camcorder, which spirals through one of those typical HK buildings with endless mezzanine floors.
I try and make the best out of my time in Hong Kong when I'm there, as it’s a happy medium between the quietness of NZ and the craziness of China. It is like the West in that you can walk the street without being harassed and like the East in that there is a bloody lot of stuff going on in the street. I usually stay up in Mongkok, which is supposed to be a triad stronghold. All I ever see is shops. The building I stay in is a sweaty skyscraper with minuscule lifts and minuscule rooms – much like a mini, less ethnically diverse version of
Chungking Mansions.
In the evening, like everybody else who’s from out of town and looking for nightlife, I head to
Lang Kwai Fong Bar Street, I’m supposed to meet a lawyer friend, but he has to work. I end up talking to some Aussie who is in town for a financial conference; he talks a lot about Asian development, using the old China isn’t a democracy, so there are getting ahead as opposed to India argument. ‘Some’ beers latter I’m talking to three Chinese women; one is a Eurasian in fact. Eurasian has always stuck me as a ridiculous word (it's largely died out thank Dog (so why the fuck are you using it then?)), it reminds me of the movie ‘
Love is a Many Splendored Thing’ – a fifties’ romance, largely filmed in HK with lots of scenes in stately homes on The Island. The Eurasian heroine, a doctor and a champion of the Chinese people is based on
Han Suyin. Of course Han is not actually played by a Eurasian, but by one fo the Hollywood vixens of the day,
Jennifer Jones, in a dark wig. The Romantic nonsense (in my opinion anyway although the real life Han Suyin sounds interesting) of this movie, contrasts nicely with my beloved ‘Life is Cheap’...
I end up getting friendly with one of the Chinese women, God knows why? She is really quite unattractive and the wrong side of thirty-five. She drags me of to Wan Chai, the district full of South-East Asian prostitutes in dodgy discos, which I’ve thankfully avoided in the past. Then we go back to an apartment she has just rented on the Peak – there is no furniture yet – and what she’s paying in rent could just about buy an apartment up in the mainland. Anyway, the walk of shame in the morning is interesting – Filipina maids and Chinese boys with British accents. One Chinese boy hugs his Filipina maid:
surrogate mother or first love?It’s not really a long journey back to jackhammer Mongkok from Victoria Peak – but the two scenes are worlds apart. I sleep uncomfortably, then go out for a freshly squeezed mango juice – mango juice in Cantonese sounds pretty similar to mango juice Mandarin I muse to myself. Later, in McDonald’s I notice a worker mopping the floor who obviously has downs-syndrome. You wouldn’t see that on the mainland: handicapped people out in the open, well not often…One good thing
Chris Patten (last British Governor of HK) did – work opportunities for the handicapped? Was it Chris Patten who put this policy in place? You're right I’m too lazy to research this…